Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

The Finn-life Ikkuna Log Cabin: Just what you need to work at home.

No matter what your job, be it architect, graphic designer, office worker, the Ikkuna provids all the space you need.

What do all these people need? The Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin- a redefinition of the concept of home office. Here, you dont so much work from home as live near the office. Still, it's your own place, so do with it what you like.

Why buy the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 4.37m
External: 4.64m

Depth:
Internal: 5.01m
External: 6.33m

Ridge Height
External: 3.50m

Area:
Internal: 21.56m²
External: 29.40m²

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Build the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Wonderful slow summer days may be beckoning, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it is put together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction abilities are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Ikkuna log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

It’s possible to present this text to a professional builder then take it easy until he delivers the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. However, whoever finishes the task, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may be different slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to assemble your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is essential. Care spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the end outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to erect you should ensure that you have a full set of components. Tick off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every component near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Place out the floor beams at uniform intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Cabin is ready you can then go back and cut off away any excess polythene/DPC membrane showing. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Cabin is square. Place one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards properly. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the first row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the final shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Place the first shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the centre of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Ikkuna Log Cabin

Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Build the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Finnlife Models