Finnlife Joki Log Cabin

Finnforest Joki Log Cabin: very complementary to your garden space.

The Finnlife Joki Log Cabin is a strictly no nonsense type of cabin, and that's why it will always look perfect anywhere. Wherever it goes - by the pool, near your tennis courts, overlooking the lush croquet lawn - this log cabin always blends in.

The Joki has that lovely Nordic style, yet doesn't look ill-fitting anywhere on the British landscape. Here, the living is easy.

Why buy the Finnforest Joki Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 34mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Width:
Internal: 3.83m
External: 4.10m

Depth:
Internal: 3.83m
External: 5.60m

Ridge Height
External: 2.84m

Area:
Internal: 14.68m²
External: 22.96m²

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - see stockists for details.


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How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin yourself

The lazy summer days may be enticing, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it goes together, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife Joki log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

You could present this document to a carpenter then relax until he delivers the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever does the job, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is crucial. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will affect the end outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to build you should make sure that you have a full set of components. Tick off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every component near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to put components too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Set out the floor beams at uniform intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Log Cabin is built you can then go back and cut off away any extra polythene/DPC membrane visible. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equidistant. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Log Cabin is square. Set one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards terminate in a flushed ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board must be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When erecting the Finnlife Log Cabin during the summer periods, we suggest to leave small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the winter months. When constructing during the winter months we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Set it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line created by the roof boards is roughly straight. If necessary use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Set ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Set the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have laid the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.



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Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos