Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin

Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin

The Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin lets you lounge in those endless summer evenings evenings. right here is the place to share a slow leisurely sunset with your nearest and dearest.

Finnforest cabins are manufactured using only the highest quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are consciously managed and where industry and wildlife eke out a harmonious existence. The wall logs are set in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints, allowing for a totally weatherproof building.

The instructions for this log cabin are set out step-by-step and well illustrated. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is packed in the correct order for assembly, saving you time.

Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Internal: 4.17m x 3.51m (13ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.46m x 3.80m (14ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")
Internal Area: 14.64m² (158 ft²)
External Area: 16.95m² (182 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")

Please note that the wood will need to be treated after is it assembled


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Building Your Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin

Sumptuous, slow summer afternoons might be beckoning, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are required. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

You could present this text to a carpenter then sit back until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. However, whoever finishes the task, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is distinctive. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the base of your Finnlife Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to erect you should make sure that you have a complete set of components. Check off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to place components too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Take the frame apart again and squeeze PVA adhesive into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Press the sides together tightly. Make Sure that the frame is square by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess adhesive from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out completely between wipes to stop adhesive smearing onto the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, fix all corners with the screws provided.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to give support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards sequentially starting with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends reveals a succession of openings for the roof beams. As each opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fix by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Lay ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.




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Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos

 
March 11, 2010
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