Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

The Finnforest Mokki Log Cabin can be a spacious and light summber cabin/shed housing a pair of doors and nice large window, allowing for an ideal and never-resented extra sitting room;

Finnforest cabins are manufactured employing the best quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are managed with a conscience and there is a harmonious existence between wildlife and industry. It's alternate layering of the wall logs allows for a rigid building - a standard of excellence unique to Finnlife Log Cabins.

Clearl and well drawn, step-by-step instructions come with your cabin making assembly easier and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed. The wood is packed in protective plastic and comes packaged in the correct order for assembly, which will save you time.

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

DIMENSIONS

Internal: 3.54m x 2.70m (11ft 7in)
External: 3.80m x 2.96m (12ft 5in x 9ft 8in)
Internal Area: 9.56m² (103 ft²)
External Area: 11.25m² (121 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.51m (8'3")
It isrecommend that a concrete base is used and the cabin walls are approximately 35mm off the ground. The floor has floor joists which are pressure treated.


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Building a Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

Those lounging summer evenings may be beckoning, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it yourself!

You might present this text to a carpenter then take it easy until he hands over the keys to your completed Finn Life Cabin. However, no matter who completes the work, the first stage is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, FinnLife Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions may be different slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is essential. Time spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to erect you should ensure that you have a full set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to set parts too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s recommended running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any remaining cutdust. Dust-free joints make a better fit. Walls are built by seting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now move the position of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.


Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards properly. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to erect the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Place ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Place the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have placed the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.





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Finnlife Models

finnlife jarvi | finnlife lampi | finnlife hytti | finnlife seita | finnlife kesa | finnlfe puro | finnlife valo | finnlife kulma | finnlife mirva | finnlife mokki | finnlife peile | finnlife reikko | finnlife susi | finnlife talo | finnlife helppo | finnlife helsinki | finnlife ikkuna | finnlife joki | finnlife koppelo | finnlife lovisa | finnlife pori | finnlife suoja | finnlife teeri | finnlife teos

 
March 11, 2010
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