Finnlife Peile Log Cabin
The Finnlife Peili Log Cabin is a sublime log cabin which offers a great-sized space inside and enough room for you to create something truly unique for yourself and your garden.
Like all log cabins in the Finnforest range, the Finn Life Peili is designed with top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which which are managed with a conscience and there is a harmonious existence between wildlife and industry.
Use the Well illustrated, step-by-step plans that come supplied with your cabin making assembly of the building simpler and very straightforward.
FEATURES
* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual
DIMENSIONS
Height:9'5" (2.9m)
Width:9'7" (2.96m)
Depth:14'11" (4.34m)
This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - see individual retailers for details.
Build a Finnlife Peille Log Cabin
The long summer days may be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it goes together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it without any help!
It’s possible to show this document to a professional builder then take it easy until he delivers the keys to your finished Finn Life Log Cabin. However, whoever completes the work, the initial stage is to understand fully these instructions. The trick is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.
For features that are unique to your own Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.
Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.
Foundations and preparation: You are able to assemble your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is important. Care spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.
Before you start to erect you should make sure that you have a complete set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every component close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to place components too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.
Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.
Note again that if your Finn Life Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Place the full-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance. Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls go.
Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If necessary, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by cross-examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.
Start laying the second set of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should tap each level down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.
Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the proper gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards effectively. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.
It’s simple to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.
Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.
Place ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Place the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have placed the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.
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Finnlife Models
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finnlife seita |
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finnlife peile |
finnlife reikko |
finnlife susi |
finnlife talo |
finnlife helppo |
finnlife helsinki |
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finnlife joki |
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