Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

There's room to swing a cat or two in the Finnlife Pori Log Cabin - room for a full extended pool cue - room enough to practice dancing - got kids? invite the whole class round for a birthday party!

The covered veranda offers almost as much space again. Don't ask a few friends over, ask them all - there'll still be room to spare.

Why buy the Finnforest Pori Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 5.63m
External: 5.90m

Depth:
Internal: 3.63m
External: 5.39m

Ridge Height
External: 3.13m

Area:
Internal: 20.48m²
External: 31.82m²

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Construct yourself a Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

Sumptuous, slow summer days might be calling, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist knowledge are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t have to do it without any help!

It is possible to show this document to a professional builder then relax until he hands over the keys to your completed Finnlife Log Cabin. However, whoever does the job, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions may alter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is critical. Care spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you should make sure that you have a full set of pieces. Check off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every piece near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to put pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Note again that if your Finnlife Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Put the full-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches decides where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If needed, adjust the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by cross-examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second level of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two separate wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should knock each level down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not been supplied with an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Continue laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Put angled gable boards sequentially beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloped roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloped ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends indicates a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As every gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to secure. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then secure by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the mid-points of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Pori Log Cabin

Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

Construct yourself a Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

Finnlife Models