Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin

The Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin is the many-function hall that never closes.

The Souja log cabin is from only the finest quality softwood from highly sustainable Scandinavian sustainable forests. It features wall logs in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints which give a weatherproof building.

Why buy the Finnforest Suoja Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 44mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.1m
External: 3.8m

Depth:
Internal: 5.07m
External: 5.36m

Ridge Height:
External: 2.7m

Area:
Internal: 17.81m²
External: 20.36m²

See your preffered stockists for extras such as underfloor heating.

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Build your Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin

Those lazy summer days may be coming, but don’t hurry to build your
Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to work out how it goes together, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction abilities are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it yourself!

You could show this text to a carpenter then take it easy until he presents you with the keys to your completed
Finnlife Log Cabin. However, no matter who completes the work, the initial step is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individuFinn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to erect you should ensure that you have a complete set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to place components too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Note again that if your
Finnlife Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Put the full-height wall boards that form the bottom layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches shows where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners free. If required, adjust the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Ensure that the structure is square by examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second set of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a smooth fit, you should knock each level down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not been supplied with an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards effectively. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s simple to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the topmost architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Put ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have put the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-life Suoja Log Cabin

Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin

Build your Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin

Finnlife Models