Finnlife Susi Log Cabin

Observe as the Finnforest Susi Log Cabin transforms into the perfect outdoor games room.

The fully glazed window and twin doors ensure good access to this log cabin and a light and airy environment. The Finnlife Susi's toughness is guaranteed by 44mm thick cladding and interlocking corners. The generous area makes it an ideal all-purpose building including outdoor games room or garden office.

# Interlocking construction
# Eye-catching shingle roof
# 1 opening window
# Glazed double door
# 44mm cladding

See individual retailers for such extras as underfloor heating

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Building Dimension Width Depth Eaves Height Ridge Height
Finnforest Susi 380cm 296cm 0cm 272cm
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 380cm 296cm 0cm 272cm

Windows
Finnforest Susi 1 opening windows
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 1 opening windows

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Finnforest Susi 0cm 0cm
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material

Finnforest Susi Styrene
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating Styrene

Floor Material Tongue & Groove

Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Finnforest Susi 4.4cm
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 4.4cm

Return to top

Finnlife Log Cabin Construction

Those lazy summer afternoons may be enticing, but don’t rush to construct your
Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it is constructed, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are required. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t have to do it alone!

You might show this text to a carpenter then take it easy until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. However, whoever does the job, the initial stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo

be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is essential. Care spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will affect the end outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to erect you should make sure that you have a full set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each component near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finnlife Cabin is built and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to put components too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Set out the floor beams at uniform intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams meet with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Cabin is finished you can then go back and cut off away any extra polythene/DPC membrane visible. Make Sure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Cabin is square. Set one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards terminate in a flush ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The top end of the roof board may be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When making the Finnlife Cabin during the hotter months, we advise that you leave small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the colder periods. When building during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to alleviate any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The ending roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Set it back on the roof and nail down. Take away the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Make Sure that the eaves line created by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If necessary use a saw to trim it flush. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Set ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Set the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have put the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

Return to top

Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Susi Log Cabin

Finnlife Susi Log Cabin

Finnlife Log Cabin Construction

Finnlife Models