Finnlife Talo Log Cabin

Finnlife Talo Log Cabin

The Finnforest Talo Log Cabin is multi-purpose; it offers both a convenient store room and also has a decent sized space in the main room. The store room is cordoned off the main room and can be entered through its own external door, no only allowing a room for storage of equipment and garden furniture but perhaps another quiet room.

Like all Finnlife log cabins in the Finnforest range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife live in harmony.
Why Buy FinnForest?

Assembly of the Finnlife Talo Log Cabin is made easy with the clearly illustrated and clear to follow step by step plans. Fully glazed windows and exterior panels make life easier for you.

FEATURES:

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Separate side room

DIMENSIONS:

Internal: 4.47m x 3.51m (14ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.76m x 3.80m (15ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Internal Area: 15.69m² (169 ft²)
External Area: 18.09m² (195 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.90m (9'6")


Finnlife Talo Log Cabin - A building How To

Sumptuous, lazy summer afternoons may be beckoning, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to understand how it is constructed, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction abilities are needed. Anyone can erect a
Finnlife Talo log cabin
, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it alone!

You could present this document to a handyman then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your completed Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, whoever does the job, the initial step is to get to know these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabinsFinn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
] be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the base of your Finn Life Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to erect you should check that you have a full set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to place parts too close to the
Finn Life Cabin
] footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.


Note again that if your Finn Life Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Place the full-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help. Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches decides where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If necessary, adjust the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second set of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should tap each set down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not received an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards effectively. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the topmost architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as completed units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Place ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Place the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have put the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.





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Finnlife Models

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March 10, 2010
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