Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

The Finnlife Teeri log cabin is a part of the Finnforest Finn Life range.

Think about it: right now you could be outside enjoying the sunshine, or in your Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin enjoying games and drinking a cool juice. You could be spending time by yourself in the Teeri's secluded rear room; instead you want to be the focus of attention in the L-shaped main room. During the week it's back to business - your able to use the Teeri for hosting events too! Never a dull moment.

Finnforest log cabin components are precision-cut from top quality Scandinavian softwood for an immaculate fit. The timber comes from well-managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist. Building your Finnlife Teeri log cabin using the excellent plans supplied is simple and straightforward. The result is a professional-looking job that you'll be happy to call your own.

· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions

Look out for optional extras:

· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating

Return to top

Teeri Log Cabin building - a brief how to

The lazy summer afternoons may be beckoning, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is constructed, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist knowledge are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Teeri log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it yourself!

You might present this document to a handyman then relax until he delivers the keys to your completed Finn Life Cabin. However, no matter who finishes the task, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may alter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can erect your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is essential. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the end outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to erect you should ensure that you have a full set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each component near to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you see how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to set components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s recommended running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any remaining sawdust. Dust-free joints make a better fit. Walls are built by seting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now adjust the location of the underlying, outermost floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not extend externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually rest.

Persist with laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards sequentially beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends reveals a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As each gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the last shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Set the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

Return to top

Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Teeri Log Cabin

Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

Teeri Log Cabin building - a brief how to

Finnlife Models