Finnlife Teos Log Cabin

The Finn Life Teos log cabin by Finnforest is part of the Finnlife range of quality garden buildings.

The cleanly, lighted, spacious and Finnlife Teos Log Cabin gives the occupant a complete 180 degree view of his or her garden with surrounding windows on every side.

For added flexibility, the large opening window is able to be arranged on either the left or right side wall.

Dimensions

External Width 4.204m

Depth 2.704m

Ridge Height 3.580m

Area 12.39m2

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin - Instruction Guide

Relaxing, lounging summer days may be coming, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it goes together, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

You could present this text to a professional builder then sit back until he delivers the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. However, no matter who finishes the task, the initial stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is distinctive. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is important. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to erect you should check that you have a full set of components. Tick off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every component near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to lay components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Start with the half-height wall boards. They form the primary and lowest level. Put them over the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finn Life Cabin features internal walls, also lay the half-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help.

Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Put the first set of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints slot together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Put them in the required position.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards effectively. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the mid-points of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Teos Log Cabin

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin - Instruction Guide

Finnlife Models