Finnlife Valo Log Cabin

In case you want to use the Finnlife Valo Log Cabin as a guest room, hobby hideaway, or your own library you'll find the Valo is more than capable of delivering. As soon as the door is closed you'll find yourself in a world of your own. The Finnlife Valo is about going back to basics: you, nature and the things you care for most.

Arrange the Valo to face the south and the sun will neaver appear to set. A wonderfully welcoming log cabin like this catches the sun at pretty much any angle. from break of day to dusk of eve, the light of the sun will come streaking through those enormous side windows; In the middle of the day, you'll get warming sunshine right through the doors.If it gets too hot, you can always push open the doors and windows. Too cold, simply shut them tight to keep the warmth inside. Even on a dull or rainy day, the Valo's fabulous 90-degree views will lure you into the garden.

This log cabin's components are precision-cut from quality Scandanavian softwood for a perfect fit, first time and every time. The timber comes from well managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist - and where the rate of tree planting exceeds the rate of felling.

Cabin Measurements

The Valo comes with these features as standard:

· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions

Look out for optional extras:

· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating

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Build A Finn Life Valo Log Cabin

Fantastic, slow summer evenings may be calling, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it is constructed, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are required. Anyone can erect a
Finnlife Valo log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it yourself!

You could present this document to a professional builder then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, no matter who finishes the task, the first step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be orderly and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. These overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to erect you should ensure that you have a full set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every part near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to lay parts too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Note again that if your Finnlife Log Cabin includes internal walls, also Put the full-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance. Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches decides where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If required, adjust the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Make Sure that the structure is square by comparing the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second level of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two separate wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a tight fit, you should knock each level down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Put angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends shows a succession of openings for the roof beams. As every opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fix by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Put ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have placed the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Valo Log Cabin

Finnlife Valo Log Cabin

Build A Finn Life Valo Log Cabin

Finnlife Models